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click here. In Search Of SILVER BULLETSCATEGORY: TransmissionBack to Basics Problem: Hard shifting, erratic idle and DTCs too numerous to mention. The vehicle came from another shop: a 1997 Chevy C3500 with a 6.5L diesel engine. The owner of the shop said his tech told him the vehicle needs a transmission and a PCM. Of course he wanted a second opinion. I connected my scan tool and saw why his tech would suspect the transmission and PCM: at least 15 codes were displayed - from incorrect gear ratio to temp sensor volts too high.
The keyword that came to mind was simplicity: Keep it simple. I opened the hood, visually inspected the wiring harness and found the culprit. On a 6.5 diesel, the wiring harness shoots out from the driver side and runs across the firewall toward the passenger side down and back into PCM cavity and vice versa. What I saw was breathtaking: Right before the wiring went back into the cab, I noticed the wiring insulation (loom) was missing and some wiring was burnt. The problem was someone had removed the heat shield from the turbo and heat had melted some of the wires together, causing the problem. Repaired the wiring, corrected the problem, and saved the customer a bundle of money.
Everyone's happy. Why? Because we started with the basics.
Michael Hernandez, Owner/Technician
Michael's Automotive Car Care, Houston. TX
TO VOTE, ENTER 237 ON VOTING FORMNo More Frustration Anyone who has replaced the clutch master cylinder on a Ford Ranger will agree that bleeding the system is a tedious, pain-in-the-neck job. I have found a quick and easy solution to this problem that will have you on to the next job in minutes.
First, take out the bolts that hold the inner fender in place on the driver's side - just the back half is enough. Then replace the master cylinder but do not insert it through the firewall. Leave it lying, actuator rod end down, on the inner fender. Have a helper open the bleeder screw on the slave as you activate the plunger by hand. Three plunges later, all the air that is normally trapped in the master cylinder because of the 45-degree uphill angle is gone and the pedal is full. Three hours of hair pulling condensed to 15 minutes - gotta love it.
Chris Thomas, Shop Foreman
AAMCO Transmissions of Lake Charles, Lake Charles, LA
TO VOTE, ENTER 238 ON VOTING FORMNeat Trick To remove pilot bearings/bushings when the proper tool won't do the trick, fill the hole with candle wax or bar-type soap. Use a piece of bar stock or a bolt of the proper size to fit the hole. As you drive the wax/soap into the hole, the bearing/bushing will be forced out. It will be necessary to add wax/soap as needed. Don't forget to clean out crankshaft before installing the new bearing/bushing.
Duane Hopkins, Technician
J & R Automotive, Dublin, GA
TO VOTE, ENTER 239 ON VOTING FORMTwo Tools in One Make a quick clutch alignment tool if you do not have the correct tool or old input shaft to use.
Take a 3/8-inch extension and wrap black tape over the end to snuggly fit into the pilot bearing. Then tape about an inch further up the extension to match where the disc will be. Wrap tape to snuggly fit into the disc spline where the input shaft belongs. When you are done take the tape off and you have your extentsion back.
This works very well and has saved my tail a time or two.
Tim Adcock Sr., Mechanic/Supervisor
Peoples Energy Corp., Waukegan, IL
TO VOTE, ENTER 240 ON VOTING FORMCATEGORY: ManagementStop Second-Guessing In our shop we used to use a Noise Questionnaire. We decided that the only way we could find and repair a noise was to make sure the service advisor could hear the same noise as the customer.
Our standard procedure is to ride with the customer. If they can duplicate the noise with the service advisor, the advisor can say with confidence we can find the source.
Then the service advisor rides with the technician. They both verify the noise, and then the technician begins the task of locating the source.
We have a written procedure we follow, and if the service advisor did not ride with the customer, the technician is instructed to not proceed. This avoids the issue of a wrong diagnosis and repair.
Since we started diagnosing noise problems this way, we have not had a complaint. I would be happy to share this written procedure with anyone that wants it. Simply e-mail
[email protected].
Douglass Kirchdorfer
Downing Street Garage, Denver, CO
TO VOTE, ENTER 241 ON VOTING FORMCustomer-specific help When a customer comes to the shop, I fill out a custom form detailed to their needs. We have forms for new customers, old customers or "complaints" for no-start, no-run conditions. This is especially helpful when trying to diagnose an intermittent driveability problem. It also reminds us to offer simple courtesy checks regarding air filters, belts, etc. The better we communicate to a customer, the more we can serve them and keep them coming back for additional service.
John Schroeder, Owner
JRS, Grafton, WI
TO VOTE, ENTER 242 ON VOTING FORMCATEGORY: Suspension/SteeringSaved by a Slot When replacing upper ball joints on a GM truck, they often require a lot of chiseling. To reduce this chisel-time and noise, cut a slot in the top of each rivet down to the control arm. Now you can chisel the rivet out a lot easier.
Bob Minnick, Auto Tech
Christian Bros. Automotive, Frisco, TX TO VOTE, ENTER 243 ON VOTING FORMDon't Assume Anything On GM trucks with electronic 4x4 systems, sometimes the 4x4 does not engage the Front Axle Gears. Check:
* Vacuum leaks - check vacuum lines going to and from the transfer case and the actuator servo unit commonly located under the battery tray. Vacuum leaks are notorious.
* Be sure the three-way vacuum switch connector on the transfer case is in the proper position; it has a one-way connection.
* If all the vacuum lines are OK, ensure the vacuum switch is OK. I have found problems with a stuck switch ball. For best results, remove the switch and visually check the ball on the bottom of the switch.
* The switch located on the front axle tells the TCM that the cable has pulled in the actuator. The TCM will then stop 4x4 light from flashing and will keep the light on steady to indicate that the front axle is in 4x4
mode. Be careful; do not assume that the front axle is actually turning. It doesn't always guarantee that the gears in the front axle are meshing. You may have damaged gear teeth.
Craig Burkhart, ASE Certified Master/L1 Technician
Hanna's Automotive, Massillon, OH
TO VOTE, ENTER 244 ON VOTING FORMThank you for taking the time to cast your vote! 
