The Detailing Difference

A customer in a street rod shop discovered unsightly overspray on his two-piece polished intake manifold-a fuel-injected application-after having the body refinished at a local collision repair shop. In an attempt to clean the part, the customer used a brake solvent that caused even more problems. The solvent damaged the clear coat that had once been applied to the manifold. The fix required removal of the upper plenum and the lower intake, complete stripping to bare metal, re-polishing and adding another clear coat, as well as disassembly, cleaning and polishing of the throttle body. The result was excellent, but as you can imagine, the customer wasn't thrilled about spending the extra money to correct a situation that never should have occurred in the first place.

The moral of the story? Complete customer satisfaction exists in the details-those post-repair aspects of cleanup and fine-tuning that truly complete the job.

While the primary focus may revolve around panel repair, panel fit, surface prep and final color and gloss, that doesn't necessarily mean the job is done. You've performed a professional and proper repair, but the customer may be distracted from the total visual impact by secondary details.

Set your shop apart: Go the extra mile with the often-neglected items that serve to frame your body and paint work, such as the wheels, tires, interior, glass, trim and panel jambs. You certainly do not have to service every vehicle that enters the shop with a 100-point restoration. That ratty 1980 Bonneville with 120,000 miles and greasy engine exterior that wandered into the shop for a fender repair likely won't qualify for a white-glove inspection before it leaves the shop.

The level of detailing may range from a simple wash and vacuum to an extensive show car-level concourse mission. The extent of the detailing will naturally be dictated by the customer, and to some extent by the vehicle itself. You can make some basic assumptions regarding the vehicle. The later the model, the more detail the vehicle requires. A higher level of detailing may also be required because of the vehicle's economic value-we can likely assume greater detail will be expected with a 1994 Mercedes than with a 1994 Saturn.

When you get right down to it, each case will differ. The goal should be to satisfy each customer, regardless of social status. This means that the owner of a 1988 Escort who takes great pride in vehicle appearance deserves the same attention as the owner of a vintage Bentley.

Removing Evidence of a Buff-out

If the finish has been buffed or polished, chances are that the evidence will remain in cracks, crevices and edges where the compound wasn't removed. Detailing these areas will require close-up handwork. This may require a soft, clean terrycloth towel or polishing rag, or the delicate application of a soft-bristled-and clean-toothbrush. This is a task for a detail-oriented individual. Follow-up finishing glazes and polishes are available in an incredibly wide variety, but be aware of any silicone products to prevent air-quality contamination in your spraying area.

While slight overspray can be removed with conventional buffing or mild cleaning solvents, the use of specialized overspray clay provides another option. These are special blends of abrasives and clay-type binders designed to remove cured overspray from finishes and trim without scratching. These are available in different strengths and can be used with various car wash solutions.

Underhood Detailing

Prior to painting, install a plastic sheet or other mask-off protective material throughout the engine bay. This will minimize primer, paint and clear coat overspray on the engine and engine components or at least reduce the detailing work needed after the spraying is finished.

Before attempting to wipe down the underhood area, use a blow gun to remove any remaining shop dust. It may also be a good idea to rinse the underhood area with a mild detergent and water mixture, but avoid moisture contamination of electrical connectors. Once rinsed, blow the bay dry with compressed air.

Using the appropriate solvents for fragile plastics, wipe off all exposed wiring harnesses, the battery, battery box, radiator shroud, air intake ducting, coolant hoses and any other items that may have been subjected to overspray. When in doubt about the compatibility of a solvent, apply it first to a small test area that is hidden from view.

Once the engine bay has been cleaned, consider applying a protective coating to the visible engine assembly using either a solvent-based silicone or solvent-based non-silicone dressing product. This type of fast-dry and non-sticky coating will provide a glossy appearance to hoses, wire harnesses and engine bay components. This will also aid in future cleaning, since the coating provides a protective and slippery surface. However, make a point to check with the customer before applying such a coating, as some customers will not want it. This may be especially true in the case of some collector car or vintage car owners. However, be aware that some of these "dressing" products contain silicone, so be sure to read the information on the package before using it. If silicone is included, the product should only be applied in an area that is separate from your painting area, preferably in a separate building. Non-silicone dressings are readily available, so there's no reason to shy away from the use of these engine-bay dressing products.

If a protective spray-on coating will not be applied, consider applying a quick coat of a rubber treatment to hoses and any black air intake duct hoses or boxes. If the rubber treatment contains silicone, naturally you'll want to apply this outdoors or in a separate detailing building to avoid contaminating the shop air. Never apply any type of slippery protective coatings to engine accessory drive belts, as this may cause slipping and subsequent belt squeal.

Dress all rubber bumpers, hood stops and weatherstrip material to provide a like-new richness. Again, if the product contains silicone, apply this in an area that is completely separate from the shop's painting areas.

If a vehicle has been involved in a collision and has subsequently been repaired, keep in mind that the customer's desire is to obtain the vehicle in pre-accident condition, if not better. Granted, the customer is aware that the vehicle was damaged and that repairs have been made, but doesn't want to see evidence of the repairs.

Wheels, Tires and Well Areas

Make sure you've masked off the vehicle's tires and wheels prior to spraying but also pay attention to the cleanliness of these items before handing the vehicle off to the customer. When dealing with alloy wheels, exercise caution with the use of solvents or cleaning agents. The wheels may feature a clear coat that may be easily damaged if the incorrect cleaners are used. By the same token, uncoated alloy wheels may be damaged if the incorrect acid-type cleaner is applied. If in doubt, check with the wheel maker (granted, this may not always be possible), or with your cleaning materials supplier. An acidic cleaner that is specified for use on chrome, for instance, may be unsuitable for use on clearcoated alloys. The incorrect type of cleaner may cloud or soften some wheel clearcoatings. Wheel and tire contamination can easily be avoided if the assemblies are masked or covered during all phases of body repair, prep and spraying. Even if overspray is not a problem, it may be necessary to remove brake dust from wheel surfaces to properly detail the wheels. Always confirm that the cleaning product is suitable for the type of wheel surface to be cleaned.

Tire manufacturers will generally tell you that tires should be cleaned using a mild detergent and warm water. However, sometimes this just doesn't cut it. A variety of dedicated tire cleaners are available today that generally provide adequate results. For whitewalls or white letters, a slightly more aggressive whitewall cleaner may be required. Regardless of the type of tire cleaner being used, do not apply these products in harsh sunlight, and don't allow the product to dry on the tire. Rinse with clean water, following the product's instructions. Never use alcohol or other strong solvents, as this can remove important agents in the rubber, resulting in premature drying, cracking and/or discoloration of the sidewalls.

While tire makers also shy away from suggesting the use of dressings (they're always paranoid about the use of any chemical products on their tires), various silicone and non-silicone dressings are available. If such dressings are used, be careful to avoid applying these products to the tread and shoulder areas, as this can contaminate the tread and result in a reduction of wet weather traction.

Wheel wells are a constant source of irritation in terms of attempting to achieve cleanliness. If the original inner fender liners are to be used (in other words, if they are not to be removed), it may be very difficult to efficiently mask these areas prior to spraying. If your goal is to detail the vehicle properly, you may simply need to resign yourself to the task of masking off the immediate outer body area, removing the wheel or tire, and spraying a satin black coating onto the well surfaces.

Many of today's vehicles feature large-diameter wheels with open and airy spoke designs, which expose brake and suspension items to view. Again, it may be necessary to remove the wheel or tire to clean those visible areas. If brake calipers are visible, these may or may not be cleanable. If the calipers were hi-temp coated at the factory-Porsches, for example, may feature a red hi-temp coating-try cleaning these with a mild solvent first. If you decide that the only approach to achieve the desired appearance involves repainting the calipers, use only an extreme high-temperature paint. Chances are good that, regardless of the coating you apply, the calipers will eventually discolor, but as long as they look acceptable for the first month or so of use, you've likely done all you can. As far as visible suspension pieces are concerned, pay attention to coil springs, strut bodies, control arms, anti-sway bars and tie rods.

We're not trying to convince you that every vehicle needs to be brought to a concourse condition, but you should make every attempt to remove overspray evidence wherever possible.

Interior Odors

While this is not a concern in each case, some exceptions may involve objectionable odors in the interior, the result of formerly-leaking heater systems or formerly wet carpet (resulting in mildew odors) and even chemical odors caused by shop materials. Aside from airing the interior, consider the use of several products that will lessen or eliminate any of these odors.

One option to consider is an ozone generator, often referred to as an ozoneator. This portable unit generates ozone, which is an effective oxidizing agent. Ozone alters the molecular structure of offensive microorganisms, neutralizing smells from plants, pets and smoke, while killing mold, mildew and bacteria.

Ozone is heavier than air, so it should be placed high in the vehicle, such as on the rear shelf or on the dash. Close all doors and windows, except for a small opening of about 1-in. The ozone generator needs a small supply of oxygen from the outside air to create ozone, and the unit's electrical cable requires a pass-through anyway. Typically, the unit will be activated inside the passenger area for about an hour, but this may vary slightly. The cost of these units will vary depending on brand and unit capacity, but you should expect to pay somewhere in the range of about $200 to $340.

Other options include the use of odor-eliminator spray applications. In this category, we are not referring to products that create a "different" odor intended to mask the existing odor, but products designed to destroy existing odors while either producing a "neutral" or a scented smell.

Yet another approach involves the use of baking soda. Do not pour the baking soda onto interior surfaces. Rather, simply place the open boxes in the interior, allowing them to remain in the interior overnight. This will serve as a dessicant and may remove the objectionable odor.

Applying Graphics

If the post-repair requires installation of adhesive-backed vinyl graphics, lettering and striping, care must be taken to avoid scratching the surrounding area especially with the use of pins to prick trapped air bubbles. Vinyl graphics should be applied wet. The presence of a liquid between the body surface and the vinyl adhesive allows the graphic material to be correctly positioned (the liquid lubricates the surface), and because of the liquid, air bubbles may be easily squeegeed out using a clean, pliable plastic body filler spreader. Removing trapped air before the adhesive begins to attach itself to the body surface eliminates the need to later pin-prick the vinyl, which can cause small air and moisture entry holes in the surface finish. When smoothing the graphic with a plastic spreader, avoid using excessive pressure, which can create slight surface scratching on the surrounding exposed body panel surface.

Interior Debris

We're all familiar with dust and glass particles that may be trapped in the ventilation and cockpit blower ducts following any extensive autobody repair. While the interior upholstery-i.e. seats, carpets-should have been protected during the repair and spray phases anyway, make sure these areas are covered before attempting to cleanse the ventilation system to avoid further upholstery or carpet contamination. While wearing quality eye protection, operate the vehicle's blower to help eject debris and dust from the system. Tap on the dash area during this to blow out, dislodged trapped debris. Naturally, you'll need to vacuum the interior afterwards. If you're vacuuming the headliner, first take the time to make sure your vacuum wand/head is clean to avoid tracking dirt.

Once the interior appears clean, take the vehicle for a test drive over a bumpy road. This may shake dirt, dust or glass particles out of concealed areas.

Cleaning Glass

A source of common frustration involves glass-including windshields, door glass and fixed glass. If masking was ineffective, a close inspection of all glass edge areas should be made, removing any overspray with the appropriate solvent. A cloudy residue may also be present on the interior side of the glass. A mild cleaning solvent specifically designed for use on vehicle glass should be used to avoid damaging fragile coatings. While a quality glass cleaner may suffice for exterior glass surfaces, some interior glass films may be difficult to remove, such as smoke, poor defrost operation, airborne particles or solvents and other chemicals. A dedicated window film "scum" remover may be required for interior use, which will both clean and remove any streaking and stubborn film residue. Because of the aggressive nature of some strong solvents, care should be used when cleaning interior glass surfaces to avoid damaging tinting or protective plasticized glass coatings.

When cleaning any plastic materials, always use a soft, clean towel, and avoid using paper towels or aggressive solvents. Many formulas of paper towels can easily create scratches and swirls on soft plastics, including instrument faces, marker light lenses, some clear plastic headlight coverings and taillights. Special cleaning products should be used that won't discolor, scratch or cloud plastics.

Inspect for leftovers and assemblies

Inspect the entire vehicle for loose items that were used in the process of the repair. This might include leftover screws, bolts, nuts, washers, pieces of abrasive material and forgotten tools. Leaving such items in the vehicle is not only costly for you. A $40 tool or even a handful of screws affects the bottom line, but this also leaves the customer with an image of sloppiness that reflects badly on the shop.

Just because the customer may have left a mess inside the vehicle doesn't mean it needs to stay that way. The vehicle should at least leave your shop in a clean and orderly state. Again, this reflects on your shop's attention to cleanliness and detail.

Once the repair has been completed, make a cursory examination of the vehicle, looking for trim pieces that fit properly, screws that are fully tightened, rusty or damaged fastener heads, etc. Re-fit, clean or replace minor items as needed. If proper detailing involves replacement of a costly item such as a dash pad, a few chrome lugnuts or a door weatherstrip, naturally this should be presented to the customer and replaced only with his or her approval.

Operational check

Make sure everything works before passing the vehicle to the customer. By this we mean checking those operational functions that may have been affected by a collision or disassembly/assembly in the shop. Included are items such as headlights, brake lights, running lights, turn signals, wiper operation, dash lights, radio/sound system, blower motor, air conditioning, dome light, courtesy lights and horn. Pay particular attention to trailer connections-running lights, brake lights, turn signals and electric brake controllers-that may have been damaged during the collision or disconnected during repairs.

Also check for any "check engine" warning lights that may be activated. Although any trouble codes may have been present prior to the vehicle entering the shop, it's always possible that one or more harness connectors may have been contaminated, damaged or disconnected during repairs. If you don't have access to a diagnostic tester appropriate for that vehicle, you might invite a local tech to visit the shop to read and clear these codes, or suggest that the vehicle should be delivered to a local car dealer for such diagnosis. If the vehicle is equipped with one or more catalytic converter, bear in mind that the converter may have been damaged during a collision. Also, the oxygen sensor may have been damaged or the sensor harness has been disconnected during repairs.

Check all mechanical and hydraulic systems for operation, including the brake system and steering system. While this may not fall under the category of "detailing," it's always wise to emphasize the need for such checks.

Optimizing clear coat

When an overall refinish has been performed, as opposed to a spot or panel repair, the customer may desire an optimized "wet" appearance. Although applying the final clear coat and allowing it to flow properly can result in a "wet" look, a slight texture may be noted when examined closely. If this is not acceptable, and the finish must be further enhanced, the clear may then be treated with additional knock-down.

Normally, an application of two to three coats of clear will be sufficient to achieve film buildup. For durability, 1.5 mils. to 2 mils. thickness is preferred to achieve an OE-level gloss. For a truly wet look, as much as 5 mils. to 6 mils. of clear can be applied, but bear in mind that there is a point of diminishing returns if the clear coat is excessive.

Again, in order to achieve a "normal, or OEM-like" wet look, a slow-drying and even-flowing clear application will likely be sufficient. However, if the customer wants an "ultimate" wet look (and is willing to pay for this custom-grade of work), each coat of clear can be wet-sanded and the final clear flow coat can be sanded and buffed. Naturally, this is not the norm, but can be offered if the customer insists on the highest possible level of gloss.

After each coat is allowed to dry, the clear can be wet-sanded with 1,500- to 2,000-grit paper. After cleaning and tacking the surface, the next clear coat can be applied and sanded, etc. The last coat of clear is then evaluated after drying. If it's suitable, let it go. If a higher gloss is desired or if defects are found such as dust, the final clear coat can then be sanded and buffed.

Buffing speed and pressure must be considered. Using excessive pressure and/or excessive pad speed can result in burn-through of the clear, which will result in a cloudy or milky appearance.

One of the aspects often overlooked involves the grade of water being used during wet sanding. Avoid using "hard" water at all cost, as this may leave mineral deposits/residue on the surface that can easily contaminate the clearcoat. Consider using distilled water instead, to maintain surface purity. Also, it's vital to be absolutely certain that the clearcoat is fully dry before applying additional coats.

A typical application of clear might involve two coats to a buildup of about 2 mils, followed by baking to achieve proper roll-out of the surface texture. Once dry, perhaps overnight, the surface can be wet sanded with 1500 to 2000 grit paper, which will remove approximately 0.3 mils of this film build. Additional film buildup will occur with the next one or two coats.

The broad subject of vehicle detailing certainly includes more than we've discussed in this article. However, our goal here is to prompt shops to more closely consider the many aspects of final detailing in order to increase customer satisfaction and repeat business.