ElectricalNo-Start Check Extra resistance in the starting circuit reduces current flow to the starter, lowers cranking speed and can cause a no-start condition. If there’s insufficient voltage available to crank the starter and you have checked the battery charge/condition and the cables for voltage drop, check the starter motor terminal and the starter solenoid for evidence of arcing, which can cause voltage loss at the starter.Barry D. London, Owner/Technician
Omega Performance, Syosset, NYTO VOTE, ENTER 239 ON VOTING FORMFind the End Cut a deep “V” on the side (corner) on a roll of electrical tape. It will tear off easy.Rick Pulliam, Owner
Kimberling Auto Service Inc., Reeds Spring, MOTO VOTE, ENTER 240 ON VOTING FORMOpen Ses-A-MeUse a seam ripper to open a taped electrical harness. Rick Pulliam, Owner
Kimberling Auto Service Inc., Reeds Spring, MOTO VOTE, ENTER 241 ON VOTING FORMChasing Threads IIAnyone who has approached an accumulator or other fitting with dissimilar metals knows the fear of corrosion it can invoke. While I have used penetrating oil, line wrenches, heat, brute strength or all of the above with limited success, I have had 100 percent success so far with a modified front-end approach.
I use a standard cut-off wheel on a die grinder to cut a groove along the female nut of the fitting, from its edge back to the end of the male threads, being careful not to cut into the flange of the O-ring seat. I cut into - but not deeper than - the threads of the male fitting so that the grooves of the threads are visible.
I then apply liberal doses of penetrating oil to the groove. Using a tie-rod sleeve tool (the larger one for light truck sleeves) I position it to “spread” the nut in order to break it loose. I then work the fitting loose, continuing the penetrating oil treatment, as with any corroded nut.
The sharp edges of the modified nut act as a thread chaser allowing either an easy new assembly or reassembly if new parts are not used. The nut still has more than ample threads to ensure a positive O-ring seal. This has saved me much time and aggravation and alleviated the need to replace otherwise unneeded parts, gratifying both customers and myself. Oh, yes - a dab of anti-seize is a nice touch for the next technician. It might be you.
Blaine Moe, Master Tech/Owner
Moe’s Auto Repair, Ft. Walton Beach, FLTO VOTE, ENTER 208 ON VOTING FORMLeak check So you’ve just replaced a water pump, and you’re ready to install covers and/or drop in coolant. You’ve got one of those fancy vacufill systems, and you install it only to find that it will not pull down into a vacuum. What now?
We found that, before dropping in any fluids, using our EVAP smoke tester saves us a lot of time and headaches. You will need an old pressure tester with an appropriate adapter for the radiator, block or expansion tank connected to the smoke machine.
Smoke will show you the area of concern and soapy water will pinpoint the exact problem. Retest until the system is sealed and your vacufill works as it should.
This also works great in confirming engine oil leaks. We recently had a 2000 Land Rover in for a rear main seal that had been done at another shop. It turns out the problem was the rear main bearing cap side gaskets/seals. Removing the oil pan facilitated the repair. Imagine if the tech would have installed just the seal and not checked? The customer was amazed by the way we discovered this and the tech was glad not to do the job twice.
Remember to block the crankcase breather tube/hose to seal up when checking.
Charlie van Loon, Shop Foreman/Lead Tech
Don’s Import Auto Service, Vero Beach, FLTO VOTE, ENTER 215 ON VOTING FORMHeater Performance Here in Iowa. it can get very cold and heater performance can be a best guess. I bought an indoor-outdoor thermometer and tied the outdoor probe to a spring-type clothes pin, which I clipped to the heater outlet during a road test to check the temperature.
I have found that a normal good heater outlet temperature needs to be 140°F with the fan on high speed. Some will do as high as 160 degrees; there may be a few with really high fan speeds that won’t make 140°F. I have never seen any specs for this anywhere.
After I have verified engine temperature and flow to the heater core, I will backflush the heater core with flusher that has a garden hose and air connected to it. After the water is on, be careful to turn on the air a little slow as some old cores may be weak. I warn customers that it may it leak.
Hit it with air several times and flush in both directions. Many of the newer aluminum cores have small passages and can plug quite easily. I seldom have to replace one. I have seen some cars that may have poor heat to one side of the passenger compartment and it is just that one side of the heater core that is plugged.
Ronald Maurer, Owner
Ron’s Repair Inc., Cherokee, IATO VOTE, ENTER 216 ON VOTING FORMSecondary Ignition TestingI have found a digital storage oscilloscope (DSO) can read kilovolts (kV) from coil-on-plug systems. Leave the negative lead hanging on the tester. Touch the positive lead to the top of the coil. With the correct scale on your DSO, the pattern produced will look like a inductive lead on a plug wire. I use the positive lead because of the freeze frame button on it, but if you were to use the other lead, the pattern would just be inverted. Note: The unused lead must not be touching you or the car.
Jason Burr, Mechanic
4 Seasons VW, Missoula, MTTO VOTE, ENTER 224 ON VOTING FORMSafety InspectionBe sure to keep all lift contact surfaces and jack stand saddles free of oil and grease, especially after performing work where fluids can migrate and drip, such as LOF, ATF and coolant service.
Degrease these surfaces as part of your daily shop safety inspection to reduce accidents and avoid literally sliding down that slippery slope. Also, make sure that a vehicle’s lift points are free of coolant, oil or grease before engaging the lift.
This may not seem like a management tip, but do you know how to spell liability lawsuit? Make a daily safety inspection to reduce potential shop liabilities.
Barry D. London, Owner/Technician
Omega Performance, Syosset, NY
TO VOTE, ENTER 238 ON VOTING FORMGo To
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