It used to be that there were basically two types of tape: general-purpose masking tape and fine line tape. Not anymore, according to Tom Speakman, who has 40 years of experience in the collision repair industry. “Today, you not only have masking and fine line tape, you also have lifting tape, emblem tape, striping tape, etc.,” says Speakman, the market development manager for distributor Mattos Pro Finishes, headquartered in Temple Hills, Md.
Masking tape manufacturers now provide choices that allow variations of width, stretch, bendability, solvent resistance, stick and edge sharpness.
Crepe masking tape helps ensure sharp breaklines, is conformable and easy to remove.Photo courtesy of Sherwin-Williams Automotive Finishes
Masking paper also has seen many changes. (Newsprint, thankfully, has virtually disappeared from the scene. It makes a poor barrier against most of today’s primers and paints and the ink easily dissolves in solvents and fumes, resulting in serious stains.) Papers today have many of the characteristics of the tape. In addition to bendability and resistance to solvent products, they’re also waterproof, easy to tear and come in various widths.
Of course, masking products are not limited to paper. Plastic wrap, or plastic sheeting, was introduced nearly 20 years ago and has now replaced paper in many shops. That’s because this product makes the masking step easier. It comes in several sizes (9 ft. to 16 ft. in width) of prefolded drape plastic film rolls. Unrolled from a convenient, hand-held masking dispenser, it’s easy to apply and covers large areas in a single process with no joints to allow overspray leakage. The sheeting is usually tucked behind masking paper and sealed with tape. The nature of the plastic helps attract passing dust particles, which prevents contamination of the paint finish. The treated plastic also prevents solvent bleed-through and ensures against paint flaking during the de-masking process.
Properly masking a car is a critical step in ensuring that a quality job is delivered to a satisfied customer. Masking protects openings from paint overspray and helps keep paint shops neat.Photo courtesy of DeVilbiss Automotive Refinishing
Weather barrier wrap is designed as a temporary weather barrier for broken windows, windshields and sunroofs. It helps keep interiors of damaged vehicles dry and clean.Photo courtesy of Norton Automotive Aftermarket Division
Plastic and liquid
Plastic sheeting enables technicians to mask right up to the paint edge and eliminate the need for a 12- or 18-in. masking paper border. This eliminates the cost of that paper and, more importantly, significantly reduces labor time by cutting out an entire step.
Speakman notes another recent addition to the masking arsenal: “I think the biggest change has been the usage of liquid spray mask.”
Liquid spray mask is applied to the car with conventional spray equipment after 18-in. paper is applied next to the repair area. It easily covers hard-to-reach areas, protecting them from overspray, and it washes off after the paint has dried. It’s extremely economical: one gallon covers approximately five cars. It also prevents contamination from the rest of the car from getting on the repair area, and it eliminates the trash resulting from using paper or plastic wrap.
Some shops also spray liquid mask on booth walls to prevent buildup of overspray. Each application lasts about three months, after which it can be washed off with a hose. Two gallons covers a typical spray booth.
Masking don’ts and do’s
The biggest masking mistake made by many shops, according to Speakman, is “the use of low-quality tapes that don’t adhere properly or are very difficult to remove after baking the car in the booth.”
Indeed, masking tape and paper are often chosen based on cost alone, without any consideration for the importance of dust control, bleeding protection, ease of unmasking, or overall quality of the repair. But cost involves more than the price of the product. If the paper breaks down when exposed to water during wet sanding, for instance, it can ruin the job. So, for shops that are ruled by a lust for low prices, remember, the expense of redoing one refinish job contaminated with paper fibers will more than offset any savings you make using inexpensive tape or paper.
While today’s advanced tapes and masking materials help make masking easier, they must be complemented by proper technique and procedures. Some common guidelines can help make the job easier and more successful. Start by masking the jambs first. Then mask the close panels. Continue wrapping so that the driver’s door is last in order to allow for moving the vehicle into the paint booth area before final masking. When possible, always back tape. (Back taping is the taping off and papering from the inner surface of any panel that is to be primed or painted to avoid overspray into the jamb or interior areas.) If painting only one panel, such as a deck lid, back tape the lock cylinder opening and all four edges with 11/2-in. tape, then 18-in. paper (this would save any inner or back side masking). When possible, mask inner edges of panels to a body line, body seam or joint to avoid excess paint lines on the inside of a panel. Fine line tape is a good option in any area that paint film will lay directly against. This allows a cleaner edge and ease of unmasking. After initial masking, if a substantial amount of sanding takes place or wet sanding is conducted, it’s wise to unmask, clean and remask. During final wiping with a tack rag, also wipe all masked areas. Tape should not be allowed to remain on the surface more than three or four days, and never allow tape to remain on the surface if the vehicle is left outside in rain or direct sunlight. Carefully remove masking once the finish is dry to the touch, and always follow the manufacturer’s instructions on allowable time for removing masking when using high temperature or infrared force-drying. Finally, don’t substitute tape for more economical masking paper. It’s easy to lay down
11⁄2- or 2-in. tape rather than apply 6-in. paper on small areas. The roll of tape is right there on the technician’s wrist and it’s very tempting to use tape instead of paper on things such as taillights. But it’s an expensive convenience.
STEP A. Lay down a tape-line along the critical edge. Be sure the entire vehicle is dry. Photo courtesy of Norton Automotive Aftermarket Division
STEP B. Plastic wrap, or plastic sheeting, was introduced nearly 20 years ago and has now replaced paper in many shops. That's because this product makes the masking step easier. Unrolled from a convenient, hand-held masking dispenser, it's easy to apply and covers large areas in a single process with no joints to allow overspray leakage. The nature of the plastic helps attract passing dust particles, which prevents contamination of the paint finish. The treated plastic also prevents solvent bleed-through and ensures against paint flaking during the de-masking process. Photo courtesy of Norton Automotive Aftermarket Division
STEP C. Here, the sheeting is taped in place with the tape-line laid down in step A. The vehicle is ready to paint. There is no need to mask the critical edge with paper--the sheeting clings to the vehicle, holds the paint and protects the vehicle from overspray.Photo courtesy of Norton Automotive Aftermarket Division
